Karama is the capital of the Malayali-Filipino Diaspora in the Gulf. It is the Kesavadasapuram of Dubai – not bang in the heart of the city’s posh dynamics; not far removed to be called a suburb.
In fact that begs a question: Where is Dubai? You know that point where a milestone must say ‘Dubai – 0 Kilometre.’ Guess that applies to every city.
Thiruvananthapuram is not Thampanoor; Kochi isn’t Ravipuram. Every city and town and village, has its micro-hubs, which put together forms what we call Dubai or Abu Dhabi or Thiruvananthapuram.
Karama isn’t really fussed about the West; it just sells Calvin Karamas to unsuspecting tourists from Germany, UK and France who marvel at the Diors and Burberrys – all got for a bargain. After all, in this city original branded perfumes sell in the malls at one price while stand-alone outlets in Karama offer the same at a fraction of the price (even with original wrappers) and I can’t figure out how this works.
Here in Karama, life has a rhythm; yes, it is a wee bit predictable:
- Malayalis line-up (happily providing their names to a bouncer-like restaurant staff, who will then call it out loud when a seat vacants) at one of those popular eateries that attract diners from Sharjah to Abu Dhabi (my personal opinion of the outlet not very complimentary)
- Filipinos run to G-Mart for their share of pork slices.
- ‘We-are-from-Thiruvalla’ groups clamour for the freshest mutton legs at Sunsrise Supermarket
- The whole of north India in Dubai make the biggest of their usual self-important ruckus around Bombay Chowpatti
- Devout-looking Karnatakites look all so solemn as they bite into veggies at Sukh Sagar
- The fast-food lovers throng our KFC
- And yes, it is always crowded at the LuLus – and there are four of them here selling everything under the sun
These shops only define a little of what Karama stands for; there is so much more to this place that is home and yet never home. Unlike the freehold communities elsewhere in New Dubai, Karama is for a floating population, people who somehow have gone on to live here for decades together. -
Malayalis driving cars with the small elephant caparison – a handicraft most likely to have been picked from Guruvayoor
- Filipinas who can be distinguished for their wealth by the number of gold bangles and trinkets
- Iranians who sit in front of car batteries and stacks of tyres
- Pakistanis who put up their face on barber shop hoardings
- And yes a lot more..
They mark the journey of Karama Sutra -to be unfolded – right from the lusty musty dark corridors of bar hotels to the gossip addas of barber shops.
This is the start of my tribute to a place that I call home away from home.
(pic of handicraft from thrissur.olx.in)
